Wyuna Clear Water
Port Phillip Pilots Association
If you grow up around big tidal passages of water, you do so with the knowledge of two things, respect and fear.
And if you happen to be familiar with Port Phillip, you will be aware of the treacherous stretch known only as, The Rip. My grandfather purchased a holiday home at Point Lonsdale the year Sputnik went into orbit and so the house was affectionately known as Space. We spent our summers here on the beach where the Lonsdale lighthouse was a constant half way point for walks and from where we’d watch pilot boats plough through waves and ships navigate swirling depths.
Sheltering from the wind, backs to the stone Dad told us about the convict, William Buckley, who risked his life to swim across The Rip – the stuff of another story. For this is the first article in a series about The Rip. Written by my mum, Mary Balharrie, an avid reader of SWS and now we are delighted to call her, a contributor. EDITOR // Sal Balharrie
A PILOT VESSEL CALLED WYUNA
by Mary Balharrie
If you have ever sailed or motored through The Rip, you will know the power of water. Every cubic meter around and below, 1000 kg of power, as your vessel rises and falls. You will be aware of the tides and the need to enter or leave Port Phillip in sync with the moon as water empties out into Bass Strait or refills the “bath tub” 12 hrs and 25 mins hours later.
In 1957 the beach between Point Lonsdale and Queenscliff was a wide sandy bay, the bluestone promenade finishing a hundred metres from the Post Office. In the 60’s, an ongoing attempt to tame the relentless force of waves pounding land, the wall was extended towards Queenscliff. I remember a man working alone with his horse and dray, dragging the large bluestone blocks, and digging a deep trench with a blade.
It is impossible to stand under Lonsdale Lighthouse and not wonder how the early pilots guided a ship into this harbour. And how did those on board feel after a 6 month journey from the other side of the world - iron ballast, cargo and world weary passengers, desperate to feel solid earth once more. Some were lucky, some were not. There are 200 shipwrecks within 15 km of the Heads.
The Rip is a stretch of water, 3.2 km wide, between the Heads – Point Lonsdale and Point Nepean. One of the most dangerous stretches of water in the world and through which roughly 3200 commercial ships pass every year on to their way to Melbourne.
By 1839 it was agreed that ships needed a dedicated pilot to help steer and guide vessels through the dangers of The Rip, into the safer haven of Port Philip and on to the Port of Melbourne. George Tobin was to be Recommended by the shipping community of Port Phillip, George Tobin was appointed as the first pilot for the Harbour of Melbourne.
Since that time there have been 285 Master Mariners who are on the Honour Board at the Port Phillip Pilots Association and from a family point of view, it is intriguing (mostly to us) that we have a forebear represented in William Graham Balharrie - a Pilot from 1943–1965.
The first pilot boat was a whale boat with four oarsmen, and steered by another oar over the stern. Sailing boats were used until 1901, and it was not until 1950 that Pilots engaged a naval architect to design a boat to their specifications.
Port Phillip Pilots Association.
After receiving quotes from Britain, Holland, Hong Kong and Australia, they eventually signed with Ferguson Brothers of Glasgow who then built what was claimed to be the best cruising pilot ship in the world.
She had the beautiful lines of the Royal Yacht BRITTANIA and was named WYUNA, aboriginal for Clear Water. She was 63 metres long and weighed 1340 tonnes, her beautifully proportioned lines saw her gracefully sail from her anchorage in Queenscliff in and out of the heads to pick up or deliver a pilot.
Pilots are said to have loved the WYUNA. The cabins were comfortable as was the dining saloon. Not only was she very pretty but with three 650 horse powered diesel electric engines, she could also maintain 14 knots.
WYUNA in the foreground. Pilot disembarking from THE ARCADIA outside the heads.
Incoming ships were requested to come to stop 5km from the heads. The WYUNA then sailed through the heads and approached the ship from its stern. Around 150m away from the ship, on the leeward side, a 5m Work Boat was launched. Two seamen took the pilot across to the ship and via a ladder and ropes hanging from the side of the ship the pilot picked his moment to jump and climb. No easy task. The Workboat then returned to the WYUNA leaving the pilot in charge and prepared to guide the ship through the heads and on to Melbourne.
The Work Boat - attributed to Brendan Moloney
Watching the ships arrive and depart was part of the daily ritual, and in C1961 the ORIANA was listed in the daily shipping news to enter through the heads at 2am. At that time she was the largest passenger liner between the UK and Australia. At trial she reached 30.64 knots. There was much excitement in the town and cars, hoping for a glimpse of her arrival, stretched back down the road for 3 km and all the while, waiting, the Pilot Boat WYUNA lay ready to deliver the pilot who would take charge of the ORIANA and assure her safe arrival.
1979 saw the MV WYUNA sold to the Australian Maritime College, Launceston. Stranded in the Tamar River, various owners have failed in their plans to honour this once elegant and brave lady. Money has been raised to bring her home to Melbourne, as yet her future is not clear.